Following a few simple guidelines when the frame or shutter is at the planning stage can be fundamental in ensuring that it works well in practice.

1. Round off the edges to a curvature radius of at least 2-3 mm, to allow for a coating film of consistent thickness.

2. Using a milling cutter, carve out channels to allow for the draining of the impregnating agent if the frame is to be dipped or flow-coated.

3. Deploy technical solutions that reduce as far as possible the potential for water stagnation:
- incline the surfaces (at least 15°);
- the upright and crosspiece should be perfectly flush.

4. Use a crosspiece of the same length as the entire fixture (A) or with the corner joint at 45° (B). This procedure allows for the exposed edges of the uprights to be protected from direct contact with atmospheric agents, particularly rain. If the edges are not protected by a suitable layer of coating (C), humidity will penetrate more easily, causing the wood to swell and the coating film to crack. This fatally compromises the durability of the fixture.

5. Protect the exposed edge of the upright or the joint of the upright and crosspiece with SA10 sealant.

6. It is advisable to use D3-class glues (such as our MPCD3) in the assembly of the fixture.

7. Use gaskets that are suitable for water-based paints, made from thermoplastic elastomers. PVC should be avoided in that it often includes the addition of plasticizing additives that can come into contact with the film, causing stickiness and/or the formation of color rings. If in doubt, always carry out a compatibility test.